A Gracious Grove
STORY AND PHOTOS BY ALLIE GOOLRICK
“When we moved here from New York, we were overworked urban attorneys,” laughs Cathy Sklar, now the owner of the Albemarle Inn in Asheville’s Grove Park neighborhood. “We stayed at the Albemarle and fell in love with Asheville, and within a nine-month period we bought the Inn.”Cathy and husband Larry aren’t the only ones charmed with the area hugging Sunset Mountain. Though the neighborhood was designed as a retreat for the wealthy, the beautiful setting drew many artists, thinkers and writers. “Bela Bartok stayed here at the Albemarle for six months in 1943-44,” says Cathy. “He wrote the Asheville Concerto here — inspired by birds outside of the windows.”
Walking through the Grove Park Historic District, with its wide, evergreen-lined streets and elegant homes, it’s hard to believe that developer E.W. Grove originally planned the area simply as a summer retreat.
Aided by architect Chauncey Beadle, Grove spearheaded the 1908 construction of the neighborhood to coincide with the 1913 opening of the Grove Park Inn. Accordingly, the area boasts a prodigious selection of early 20th century architectural styles, including Tudor Revival, Colonial Revival, Bungalow and American Foursquare — and a glimpse of what life in Asheville was like for a new leisure class.
“I love the Craftsman cottages off of Evergreen Lane. They have a wonderful nestled feeling,” says Cathy. Her own Albemarle Inn, in the Greek Revival style, served as the Plonk School for Young Ladies in the ‘20s and ‘30s.
The first community in Western North Carolina designed around the “motorcar,” the neighborhood is crisscrossed by wide, curving streets and naturalistic landscapes inspired by Frederick Law Olmsted.
Charlotte Street Park serves as the eastern entrance to the neighborhood. Surrounded by stone walls and gateways and canopied by evergreens and oaks, the park sets the tone for a community that flows easily with nature.
Today the Grove Park Historic District retains its pastoral charm, evoking the elegance and sophistication of the early 20th century while accommodating the upscale shelter trends of the 21st. Strolling along shady streets beneath the looming façade of the Grove Park Inn, it’s easy to envision a world of sleek black Bentleys, gentlemen in three-piece suits, and stylish ladies with parasols strolling down the sidewalks of Macon Avenue.
A TOUR OF GROVE PARK
REAL ESTATE: Many houses here date back to the early 1900s. Although differing architecturally, the homes were built to be about the same size, and most have large wrap-around porches. Summer homes, especially on Macon Avenue, are narrow to encourage cool breezes in the summer. Prices range from $325,000 to over $2 million.
DRIVING TOUR: A drive through the Grove Park Historic District is essential on a visit to Asheville, as the area showcases some of the most beautiful houses in the city. Sunset Drive, which runs through the heart of the neighborhood, reflects Olmsted’s vision: a tree-lined park, stone retaining walls, and houses set on ivy-covered hillsides. Drive down Kimberly for a great view of the Grove Park Inn and golf course, and then loop around Charlotte Street Park where residents enjoy playing bocce ball, tanning and walking dogs.
A short climb up Sunset Mountain takes you to one of the most famous hotels in America. Built by E.W. Grove in 1913, the Grove Park Inn (290 Macon Ave, 828-252-2711) was inspired by the rustic Old Faithful Inn at Yellowstone National Park. The huge granite boulders used to construct the inn weigh up to 10,000 pounds and were carted up Sunset Mountain by mule. Twin fireplaces in the Great Hall look big enough to house a Volkswagen Beetle. The Grove Park has hosted many famous guests — including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Harry Houdini, George Gershwin, Thomas Edison, Eleanor Roosevelt and Henry Ford. A $40 million spa occupies the hillside just below the hotel, and the Grove Park golf course stretches out in a leisurely green swath below.
Adjacent to the Grove Park Inn is the Grovewood Gallery (828-253-7651, 111 Grovewood Road). The space now occupied by gallery businesses originally housed the weaving and woodworking complex of Biltmore Industries. Located on the grounds are nine professional crafts studios, the Grovewood Gardens, the Estes-Winn Antique Car Museum, the North Carolina Homespun Museum and the Grovewood Café (828-258-8956).
FOOD AND DRINK: To dine in the Grove Park Historic District, start at the top: The Grove Park Inn’s Great Hall Bar (828-252-2711) is a great place for cocktails, and the Inn’s flagship restaurant, Horizons (828-252-2711), offers trend-setting upscale cuisine. The Blue Ridge Dining Room (828-252-2711) boasts beautiful views of downtown Asheville, while the Sunset Terrace (828-252-2711) serves steak and seafood on a marvelous open-air porch in summer. Other options are the Grovewood Café at the gallery next door, or several restaurants on Charlotte Street, including Two Guys Hoagies (828-254-9955, 132 Charlotte Street), the Charlotte Street Grill and Pub (828-253-5348,157 Charlotte Street), and Asheville’s organic answer to breakfast, City Bakery & Café (828-252-4426, 88 Charlotte Street).
