STYLISH LIVING IN WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA


At Home: Life Is Delicious

By Linda C. Ray

Photos By Matt Rose

Between his thriving restaurant in Asheville’s upscale Biltmore Village and the rolling hills where he makes his home, 44-year-old chef and restaurateur Reza Setayesh has cooked up a rather delightful life. The son of an Iranian businessman, Reza initially moved to Western North Carolina to attend A-B Tech’s culinary school, which he heard about while working in a kitchen in Los Angeles. Following graduation, he traveled around the country, opening various boutique restaurants for the Marriott Corporation.

Eventually, he returned to A-B Tech to teach, but after a year, Reza missed the restaurant life and tested the waters with a few small ventures before founding Rezaz, his critically acclaimed eatery, in 2002. He was going to call the restaurant Reza’s, but, surprisingly, found the name was taken. "Rezaz sounds the same, so I went with that," he says.

"Food is a very big thing in my family," Reza says as he enjoys a rare quite moment in the Fairview home he shares with his wife Eva, son Navied, 10, nine-year-old twin girls Tiam and Tasnim and Vader, the family’s bichon frise.

The home’s design, with clean lines and modern furnishings, supports the Setayesh family lifestyle. With an enviable custom-built kitchen and a variety of alternate eating areas, every meal is an event.

Best thing about living in Western North Carolina:

This was always my dream—to have a family and to be nestled in a quiet corner of the woods with the natural beauty of the mountains. It is very similar to Northern Iran.

Collections:

Wine and cookbooks.

What’s in the fridge?

Always tomatoes, veggies for the kids to snack on, jalapenos—which my wife loves—salsa and either feta or mozzarella cheese.

Favorite spice/herb:

That’s like asking a musician what’s his favorite note. If I had to choose, I’d say the three Cs: cumin, coriander and cinnamon.

Drink of choice:

Frozen cosmo.

Favorite wine:

Italian wine, particularly Amarone. Italian wine made a great comeback in the 1980s and has continued to excel.

Secret fantasy:

I’d love to be Italian. Maybe one of my girls will marry an Italian winemaker.

Favorite celebrity chef:

Mario Batali, because as my grandmother said, "There is flavor that falls out of his fingertips."

Strangest thing you ever ate:

Raw lamb liver. As a boy, it was one of the things we did in Iran. Part of the delicacy is the freshness.

Did you like it?

I did.

Most memorable meal:

The meal of the week. This past Sunday—it was slow- broiled brisket with friends. Every week I create a five-course meal with the kids in the kitchen.

Favorite midnight snack:

My kid’s leftover dinner.

Midnight snack partner:

Vader, the dog.

Morning routine:

I’m up about 6:00am and by 7:30 my hands are in a pot at the restaurant.

Evening routine:

I work 14 hours a day, six days a week, until about 10:00pm. I take one night off a week to spend with the family. And we are closed every Sunday.

A perfect day off would be:

To be home, with my wife and kids, with plenty of ingredients in the fridge. We don’t go anywhere, but just cook, talk and play together.

Favorite meal to prepare for yourself:

Call it meze-style, antipasto or tapas—bits and pieces of different foods that you just nibble on.

Favorite meal to prepare for company:

Outside, grilling homemade pizzas.

Favorite pastry:

Baklava, Persian style.

Favorite place to eat out:

New York.

Favorite gadget:

Mortar and pestle.

Favorite cookware:

LeCreuset, the only cookware.

Favorite knife:

Japanese Shun.

Next big purchase

: A Green Egg smoker.

Pet peeve:

Anything that doesn’t belong has to go. You won’t find an attic full of junk in this house.

Items you’d grab if the house were on fire:

My laptop and six bottles of wine.

Most treasured piece of clothing:

My Birkenstocks—I wear them to death.

As a child, you wanted to be…

A truck driver so I could travel everywhere.

You wish…

I could just travel and write cookbooks.

Next big trip:

To Memphis to eat barbeque.

Person from history you’d like to meet:

The 13th century Persian poet Ferdosi. He wrote a collection of poems called Shahnameh, which I read as a boy and am re-reading now with my son. It’s the equivalent of the Greek Iliad.

Personal philosophy:

Love life, love what you do, love your family and work hard.

Can’t live without:

God.

Source of inspiration:

My family.

Personal hero:

My wife. She works at the restaurant and takes care of the home and business and allows me to do what I love to do. And she always has a great attitude.

Worst thing about being a restaurateur:

Not enough time with the family.

Best thing about being a restaurateur:

Being with my extended family: my customers.

Most treasured memento:

An original painting by Antonio Benedetto (Tony Bennett). I even have a private dining room at the restaurant called the Benedetto Room.

Next project:

A casual, family-style pizza restaurant in Fairview. I want to give back to this community.

Best advice to aspiring at-home gourmet chefs:

Love what you’re cooking and cook what you love. It’s not the vessel—it’s all about gathering with family and friends.