Dangerously Good
By Keith DalbecPhoto by Rimas Zailskas
Driving U.S. 176 from Hendersonville to Tryon is not for the faint-of-heart.
Starting in neighboring Saluda, the narrow, twisting, two-laner rapidly descends about a thousand feet into Tryon Valley. But there is a reward for such effort. In a quiet neighborhood near the commercial district I stepped into the Scotch bar at the Pine Crest Inn.
As a special guest of innkeeper Carl Caudle, I was invited to sample any of the 38 offerings in their cozy, old-world-style lounge. Bartender Jamie Miller led me through the tasting.
The classic way to appreciate a single malt Scotch whisky, he says, is to sip it straight at room temperature (to take in the aroma). Then taste a small amount and let it warm in the mouth to release its vapors. Finally, swallow to gauge the length and quality of the finishing flavor.
If desired, add a little distilled or spring water, says Miller. “Never sparkling, and no ice cubes to stun the flavor,” he adds. “A fine spirit should also be consumed, like wine, in a stemmed bowl glass that will capture the aromas.”
There are four major regions, I learned, of Scotch whisky production: lowlands, highlands, Islay and Campbelltown. The lowlands produce a milder, less smoky drink. The highlands are a little smokier; the Islay scotches are intensely flavored and endowed with peat smoke. Cambelltown, a bit of an odd duck, has only one operating distillery at the time. Speyside is a major part of the highlands region and that is where some of the big names such as Glenlivet come from.
The Inn has a fine sampling of Scotch from each region. I enjoyed the bold flavored Islay Scotches Laphroig and Lagavulin. The Glenmorangie Sherry Wood 12-year-old was smooth and soft with a hint of the sherry that had previously occupied the cask in which the malt was aged. The Scapa from the Orkney Islands was smooth and not as smoky as the Islay malts (if you are going for smoothness an older scotch is usually the best). Not bad at all. “Guests are impressed by the refinement of such a small bar,” says Miller.
The most elegant of all was the Glenfiddich XXX. After 30 years resting in a barrel it was like silk on the tongue. Mildly smoky and laced with vanilla and honey, it was dangerously good.
The unique flavor of Scotch whisky is due to the malted or sprouted barley that is used. After it sprouts, the grain is dried over smoke. If peat is used, you get an earthy, pungent aroma. Scotches made on the islands can pick up seaweed and iodine qualities. The water is also a key factor and the Scots are proud of their clear, cold lochs and streams bubbling through the peat bogs.
Most Scotch whisky is blended, however, and not single malt. A blended Scotch can have as many as 30 different malts and even some grain whisky. Blended Scotch has its own contingent of aficionados.
Western North Carolina has a long history regarding Scotch. Roots go back to the Scots-Irish settlers who brought many fine customs with them, including eating and drinking preferences. The manufacture of whisky was a much-valued craft, and though the early settlers did not have the same barley, water or peat to make a traditional Irish whiskey or Scotch whisky, they managed quite well with corn, rye and cold mountain water.
Of course, the practice of home distilling and Thunder Road distribution systems is now illegal. However, the tradition of enjoying Scotch whisky and particularly single malt is growing by leaps and bounds. For a wee dram, the bar at the Pine Crest Inn just might tickle your snifter.
Slainte Mhtath. Good Health.
Pine Crest Inn
Tryon, NC
828-859-9135
pinecrestinn.com
In addition to over 30 single malt scotches, the inn offers over 1,000 wines as well as casual fine dining.
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